For KBG to be very healthy and green it needs many nutrients. Many of these nutrients are available naturally but others we have to supplement.

Macro Nutrients
Micro Nutrients

Nitrogen (N) – this is the main macro nutrient that the lawn needs to thrive and that we have to supplement. KBG requires between 3 to 6 pounds per Erin per 1000 ft.² throughout the year.

Phosphorus (K) – phosphorus helps the lawn to grow strong roots, as well as helps with nutrient uptake and energy production. In our area, most lawns have a surplus of this in the soil so we do not need to apply phosphorus. Very rarely.

Potassium (P) – potassium helps with her development, but in Utah more importantly, it helps fight off stress and disease.

These nutrients are also very important to a healthy lawn but they don’t need to be applied as much as macro nutrients throughout the year.

Iron- Required for the formation of chlorophyl. Iron helps the blades green up. 

Manganese- Assists iron in chlorophyll formation and serves as an activator for enzymes in the growth process.

Zinc – An important plant regulator, it’s essential in root and plant growth.

Copper- Help p 

Boron- Aids in new plant growth by helping your lawn absorb nutrients and grow new tissue. Boron also assists in pollination and fertilization

Sulfur- helps the grass to absorb nutrients, which helps have become healthier and greener

Calcium- help the soil structure and better water retention in the soil

Magnesium- help the grass to process nutrients and fortify it through the winter. Also help to produce chlorophyll


How do I know how much of each nutrient the lawn needs?

Behind the scenes of what we do, it’s actually very complicated. There’s a lot of scientific information and a lot of math and microbiology. The simplest version is that the law of the grass need certain nutrients throughout the year at certain times in certain qualities. Kentucky bluegrass has specific needs (just like any plant) and we know what those are. We then take down the needed nutrients and break them out throughout the entire year and create each treatment based on his needs. This is how we create our Lawn program. It’s not perfect for everyone but it works for the majority probably 95% of our lawns. Occasionally we do get 5% that can be tricky and so we may need to do a soil sample or some testing to find out how to get it to react.

Two types of fertilizer


Liquid fertilizer, working the same way, but they are sprayed onto the lawn instead of granular pellets applied to the lawn. You use a large tank and a large hose and you walk across the lawn as if you are painting the grass. These are called foliar applications. You’re applying them on to the grass leaves them self and they absorb into the plant.

Liquid fertilizer applications can move pretty quick, and they are nice because you can mix and we controls or soil amendments or insect products as well applying multiple things at once.

Granular fertilizers are a little granules that are applied by spreaders. These could be chest, spreaders, push spreaders, hand, spreaders, and even riding machine spreaders. The two most important things when applying granular are #1 -Spread fertilizer evenly across the entire lawn. If you do not, you could call stripes on the lawn. #2 – make sure you’re putting the right amount of product. That’s generally done and calibrated beforehand; you just have to make sure you maintain the correct speed and have the settings on the spreader correct. Too much fertilizer could cause the lawn to go out of balance, and two little fertilizer could cause malnutrition.

If you were to spill fertilizer on the lawn and not clean it up it could burn the lawn.

Both liquid and granular have their pros and cons. For example, granular you have to lift heavy bags throughout the day which can be exhausting. Liquid you don’t have to lift bags, but you do have to pull a long hose all day. When applying granular the equipment is often much simpler to use. When applying liquid you need to use large tanks and hoses. They are simple to use but sometimes you can have small mechanical issues. If you’re doing an application that requires spot, we treatments as well. First, you have to go over the whole on with the fertilizer. Then you have to go back and grab a backpack and spa truth weeds. When you use liquid you can sometimes mix liquid fertilizer in with the liquid, weed control and sprayed all down at once. It is possible when using granular to get on the sidewalk or driveway. In that case, you have to blow it off or something off. When you’re applying liquid that’s not a problem you don’t worry about the sidewalks or driveway. You do have to worry about hitting fences.


What are the Fertilizer products that we use?


One App or PolyPlus – this is my favorite fertilizer. It’s 100% slow release and so it’s spoon feeds Lawn throughout the entire year. You just need to put it down in the early spring and for the most part you’re done. In areas that have a longer season you may have to put a light fertilizer Down all around the late summer early fall. This also has a pre-emergent in it, so it helps minimize weeds and crabgrass.

28-4-10 50% w/Humates – Fertilizer with organic soil conditioner built in. 

28-4-10 50% XRT – Fertilizer with no humates and 50% slow release

32-3-8 2% Fe 30% XRT – Fertilizer with Iron and micronutrients and 30% Slow Release

19-3-5 Prodiamine – fertilizer with weed pre-emergent

39-0-0 XRS – Blended in at 4 bags per 1 Acre of water. This is a slow release product – it will break down slowly over 4-6 weeks. 

Plant Food 20-0-0 – Also a slow release fertilizer

We mix in other soil stabilizer, and soil conditioners that will be discussed in another section. 

How to Fertilize Using Granular

How To Fertilize

How to Fertilize Using Liquid

How To Spray

1 – Go to the furthest part of the lawn (usually the back) and work you’re way back to the truck

2 – Avoid hitting the sidewalks, fences and driveways (especially if there is iron or humates)

3- Go over the lawn evenly (like you are painting)

4- The most important part of an even application is the tank calibration and walking speed of the applicator. If you are a quick walker then increase the flow (otherwise you would not put down enough). If you are slow walker then decrease the flow. 

1 – Wrap those around the back of your body and hold it with the non-spraying hand. 

2- When you get near a flower bed or trees make sure to not hit the leafs of any plants, this will injure them. I recommend getting the gun low and close to the grass to avoid any contact with plants. 

3- Parking the truck in the right place makes a huge difference. Do your best to align the hose reel with the back gate or yard.

Stay off until dry. Usually about 15 minutes or so. Wait at least 30 minutes to water and wait at least 30 minutes to mow.
You may get the question - is this safe for my pets and family.? The answer is "Yes. According to the label if you stay off until dry it is safe.